The First Waygook

As you know, I live in a small Korean town. It has all you need to survive and lead a healthy lifestyle: doctors, gym, dentist, pharmacies, herbal care, eye doctor, etc. I've heard of many people not trusting the local professionals as their English is poor. And yes, sometimes the results aren't what you want (sugar water injection, bad hair cuts, etc.). But really, I would rather try a local and make a relationship than drag myself to Seoul for a 20 minute doctor's appointment with someone who won't remember me from the last guy. You just need to have the gumption to try a local professional and know that it could flop or be a great find.

I believe this is why I was the first foreigner to grace not one office, but FIVE establishments! I popped the waygook cherry at the doctor, herbalist, dentist, public clinic, and hair dresser. Crazy! Each one offered a similar experience, and I returned to each one a happy customer. Here were my experiences:

The Doctor: I get sick fairly often, and it sucks. I asked my co-teacher for clinic suggestions and she gave me two options. Seeing both offices from the street, I opted for the clinic with cleaner windows (that's a good sign, right?). The nurses were very welcoming and escorted me to the doctor with minimal wait. Little did I know that my doctor got his medical degree in South Carolina and practiced in Tennessee. He explained he hadn't seen a foreigner in his office since he moved his practice from Seoul. He was essentially fluent in English and got better and better each time I saw him as we developed a great rapport. I would highly suggest him to anyone living in the area.

The Herbalist: Seeking further assistance with an illness, I decided to give acupuncture a go. When in Korea? My coordinator took me to see him and it appeared that we were both just as nervous to meet the other. We got through the first appointment fine without English (my coordinator translated) and then I went alone for my follow-up treatments. His English, too, blossomed and I'm told he now has more foreign patients than ever. Seriously, be kind to one foreigner because we will tell our friends!

The Dentist: After asking many of my co-workers what dentist they recommend, there was a clear consensus to visit one specific place not far from my house. When I arrived, I felt like I was in a ritzy hotel with a spiral staircase. The staff greeted and stared as I made my way to the dentist's chair...a chair that looked out over a view of the city. Already learning that check-ups were a bit abnormal, I gave it a try anyway and received a cleaning and check-up. Luckily, one woman was able to help me a bit as she was a dental assistant in the US for a number of years. She was shy, but very kind. After the doctor confirmed one cavity, I arranged to go in for a filling (cheap!). However, when I arrived a second dentist explained there wasn't a cavity, so instead I got another teeth cleaning for free! I didn't know why, but that's just the kind of service one doesn't expect!

The Hair Salon: Perhaps the experience I was most apprehensive about going into, was the hair salon. Whatever happened I was essentially stuck. She explained in Korean that I was her first foreign client and she appeared nervous. A woman shampooed my hair and then three people surrounded me looking puzzled by the mane before them. 'Oh boy,' I thought... In the end, everything turned out alright and the price was right! I could see everyone breathed a sigh of relief when I left.

Pop Pop!
-Bets

A Teacher's Prayer

I'm coming up on one month since leaving Korea. My backpacking trip has been a blast, but I've been thinking a lot about my time teaching in "the land of four seasons." How are my students doing? Has the new guy adjusted to life in small town Korea? Is he good at volleyball? I wonder how the staff dynamic has changed.

When I return to the states, I'm looking forward to getting back into the classroom (whether abroad or at home). For any teachers who are still getting the feel for the classroom this semester, or are seasoned veterans in the field, please enjoy "A Teacher's Prayer" by Marsha Elyn Wright:

Help me be grateful
for the students who like to learn,
and feel challenged by those who don't.

Help me be thankful
for the students I love,
and understand those I'm learning to love.

Help me be motivated
by the students who learn to think,
and be committed to those afraid to try.

Help me be inspired
by the students who choose right over wrong,
and be patient with those who lack the courage.

Help me be gentle
with the students who make mistakes,
and learn to forgive a difficult child.

Help me be wise
with the students building character,
and be unwavering with those without conscience.

Help me be committed
to the students who are responsible,
and be persistent with those who value nothing.

Help me be calm
in the midst of violence,
and model self-control in the midst of anger.

Help me be faithful
in the days of discouragement,
and be dedicated to make one child smile.

ABCs and 123s,
-Bets

Waygook Humor

When you come to Korea, you learn quickly that foreigners are a dime a dozen. If you thought you were the only one to have the idea to teach abroad/blog about it, think again. Most Koreans (and myself!) expect the foreigners they meet in Korea to be English teachers. Foreign English teachers are spread out over many small towns, rural areas, cities, and metro areas.

In Korea, I'm usually (USUALLY) impressed by the foreigners I meet as we are fairly like minded and often share in a specific humor, which I would like to call, "waygook humor." It's a mixture of making fun of yourself for being foreign, as well as the cultural differences/experiences which leave you laughing and sometimes completely confused. Of course, we have other things in common, but I really enjoy a good waygook joke from time to time.

Check out these sites to see what I mean. Waygooks, if you have any more suggestions, share the link in the comments section:

• Kikin' it in Korea - A waygook life in GIFs


• Clueless Waygook Memes - Guy wears a 위국인 (waygook = foreigner) t-shirt


• Sh*t ESL Teachers Say - The YouTube sensation hit Korea, too


• Sh*t Korean Girls Say - I showed this to my CT, she couldn't stop laughing

Still Laughing,
-Bets

My First Korean Wedding

In March, I was pleased to be invited to my friend and co-worker's wedding. I was very excited to see a Korean wedding as I had heard a lot about my co-teachers' weddings. Mr. Kim had talked about getting engaged in January and I thought it was great news, though I was sad to think that I would miss his wedding. Little did I know that the wedding would occur in March: only three months after the engagement.

In Korea, engagements don't last long. Most weddings are held in wedding halls, large buildings with multiple floors of ball rooms/conference rooms/buffets. The wedding hall staff does all the planning and the only thing the couples need to worry about is the guest list.

Mr. Kim's wedding was in a wedding hall next to the beach near his fiance's hometown. It was a lovely afternoon and I was looking forward to the festivities and reconnecting with staff members who had recently transferred schools.

After our old school staff congregated in the lobby, we gathered up our money to give to the groom and his parents. No one was to give gifts, just cash. It's customary in Korea for the couple to make a list of all the money they received. In the future, they will be expected to reciprocate/exceed the given money if any of their friends or family marry in the future. So, if I gave $50, they would be expected to give $50 or more to me when I get married.

Upon presenting our monetary gift, we were given meal tickets to the wedding hall's buffet restaurant. A bit confused, but still following my fellow teachers, I went into the restaurant and ate lunch before the ceremony. There were giant plates of sushi, kimchi, noodles, onion rings, and more! It was the biggest spread I'd ever seen in Korea. As I was eating, I realized that I could be eating with guests of Mr. Kim or with any number of guests from other weddings in the hall. Regardless, we enjoyed the food and then headed into the ceremony area.

It looked like any other hotel banquet room. It was gussied up with fake pink and white flowers, ribbon, and white satin cloth. The bride and groom were in their Sunday best, the families in traditional hanboks, and the rest of the crowd was a mixture of ripped jeans, business suits, and pencil skirts. Tables were set up beside the aisle for grandparents and elderly to sit. Everyone else stood on the perimeter and watched. Though watch is a loose term... During the ceremony, most people were chatting with others, texting/talking on their cell phone, meandering back and forth, and overall not paying attention. I didn't understand why people were even there. Didn't you want to see the wedding?

The ceremony started with the usual blessings and welcome speeches.  But then the emcee started to make the groom do embarrassing things, like take off his shoe and ask everyone for money throughout the room. It got more awkward as Mr. Kim was then forced to dance to an old Korean pop song as the crowd laughed with glee. And then it clicked...

There would be no reception. There would be no dancing. This was it. The wedding WAS the dollar dance. I felt cheated. Where was my dance floor? The toasting?

When it was all over, everyone posed with the couple for various prescribed group photos: family, extended family, co-workers, students, and friends. If you fit the category, you went for your picture. The process took awhile, but once our group picture was over, Mr. Kim looked straight at me and said, "Betsy, thank you very much for coming." I couldn't believe it. Of the 60 friends in his photo and countless other people before it, he turned to me and thanked me specifically.

With that, Mr. Kim and his bride were whisked away on their honeymoon and the rest of us hopped in our carpools for the afternoon drive home. It wasn't the day I was expecting, but I liked it all the same.

To the bride and groom,
-Bets

One Car, Two Car, Black Car, White Car

"Harry," said Dwayne. " I have some news for you: modern science has given us a whole lot of wonderful new colors, with strange, exciting names like red!, orange!, green!, and pink!, Harry. We're not stuck any more with just black, gray, and white! Isn't that good news, Harry?"

-Kurt Vonnegut, Breakfast of Champions

I am not an expert on car ownership in Korea, but the hoards of vehicles in this country is similar to the US. As home ownership is pretty rare, Koreans seem to use their cars as a status symbol. I chatted with a friend about dating in Korea, and she told me she checked  out guys' cars to learn more about them. She said she was very impressed by European imports (wealthy) and put off by small, colorful, Korean cars (poor).

In the US, people drive all sorts of cars from beaters to Beamers. Living in a town of 8,000, people knew I was driving by because of my car's make, model, and color. I was one of two people with the same car. Two. Our cars were unique and as for my younger demographic: our cars had more to do with function than form.

In Korea, people seem to stick to a pretty set list of car makes and models. Most of the young professionals I've met have bought new models of the latest Kia or Hyundai. Beyond similar models, they are all the same colors: grey, black, white, and tan. In a large parking lot, there may be one or two colored cars out of hundreds. Clearly, Vonnegut's words didn't ring true in South Korea.

A Korean friend tried to explain their reasoning for the color choices. They said that since VIPs and CEOs drive neutral colored European imports, the rest of the country thought their cars should mimic them with similar designs. I don't know if it's true, but something clearly stuck and continues to echo throughout dealership showrooms around the country.

So, how does this affect me?

In the small school parking lot there are about 12 vehicles. I've probably gotten a ride from each teacher at least once or twice. But, to be honest, if someone asked me: Where is the English teacher's car? I would have no clue. I know it's tanish-greyish...or maybe it's white? It has the blue foam bumpers on it (like most do). I could probably whittle the list down to 6 cars, but that would just be nixing the black cars in the parking lot. I consider myself pretty observant, and I just don't understand how this is so difficult. Parking lots are tricky places...

Vroom,
-Bets

The (Korean) End

Today is my last day of teaching in Korea. It's been quite a year with lots and lots of great memories. I've gotten to meet some amazing people who I will miss a ton. I don't want to make this some Miss Pageant farewell letter, but I hope those I've met here know how much I've enjoyed their company and insights. It definitely feels way WAY too soon to leave.  I can't say much else as I'm a mix of emotions: sad, anxious, exhausted, excited, lonely, over-the-moon, butterflies...

So, now what?

Well, I'm moving out my apartment today to make way for my replacement. I also am cancelling every Korean service I have this afternoon. The logistics of moving don't really change from one culture to the next, do they? Tonight there is a joint going away party and then it's life in a backpack for the next 50+ days. Myself and a friend will be exploring Southeast Asia including Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, and Cambodia. We are ready for adventure and I will be sure to relay stories when I return.

In the meantime, I have scheduled blog posts to continue in my absence. You'll hear more about my time in Korea and I'll attempt to make up for my extended departure from the internet in August (sorry about that, vacation beckoned).  Be sure to check out the new summer photos as well. When I get home I should have some time to edit my hours of video and share some more memories. Jet lag and all...

'Til then,
-Bets

What Happened to the BHC?

After a solid evening workout in late Winter, I decided to treat myself to a hot bowl of kimchi jiggae (spicy soup) at the bus terminal's kimbap restaurant. It's one of my favorite places to get the dish and I talked of it's wonders with my friend, George. We shared a mutual admiration and decided to dine together and then call it an early evening.

The food was good as always. Once we finished, we walked through the terminal to protect ourselves from the cold. Everything looked the same along the hallway except for one stall. The BHC (Big Hit Chicken Restaurant) had vanished over night. I peered through the glass and saw that everything was gone. I kept staring as I looked for clues to what would be going in it's place. There was nothing to be found; just a gutted white space with a few men walking around. And then, they spotted us.

I can only imagine how my face looked: curiosity, confusion, mouth agape...The men smiled through the glass and then rushed to the door to greet George and I. Within seconds we were ushered in to join them. We sat in the white room at a make shift dining room table on a hodge podge of chairs surrounding a gas range prepped to make Samgyeopsal (pork) with complimenting soju.

Coincidentally, this was not the first nor the last time we enjoyed random Korean hospitality together. The group started to convene around us. Every man came with another ingredient and more soju: lettuce, homemade soybean paste, hoddeok, and onions. This was to be a feast. I looked at George with an 'oh crap...do we have to?!' look.  Already tired and full, we gave ourselves a time limit of 8:30. This would have to end within the next hour.

As we ate, drank, and chatted with the group, we learned that we were among terminal royalty. Each man owned one of the shops in or around the terminal including the pharmacy, grocery store, massage parlor, Family Mart, and barber shop. They seemed like really nice guys as they showed us their adult children, chatted about our schools and local area, and continued to marvel over George's long dreads.

Needless to say, we didn't make our 8:30 deadline. Finally, at 9:15 we made our escape with low, reverent bows. The men shared disappointed smiles and continued on with their evening. I walked home with George in disbelief. 'Did that really just happen? It's a Tuesday!' Neither of us could stop laughing...

Just another  random weeknight in small town Korea.

One Shot,
-Bets

Happy Summer

My summer camps have come to an end! It has been an intense two weeks filled with many hours of lesson planning and teaching. With two separate age groups and curricula, I had an interesting balancing act. However, I think the elementary students loved the Olympics theme. They made posters, bracelets, and hot dogs...and had a fair share of friendly competition. While, the middle schoolers focused on travelling and countries of the world. They made flags, pasta, T-shirts, and s'mores.

The last day was a big success with two great activities. The elementary students had Mini-Olympics which included events like limbo, Simon Says, and a balloon pop word scramble. I couldn't stop laughing... The middle school students finished up their final projects and enjoyed popcorn and a final screening of their efforts. Check out their stop motion creation all about their Bucket Lists. I'm so proud!



Time for Vacation!
-Bets

The Questions You Will Hear Everyday

As my close friends can attest, I geek out over podcasts/radio programming. I love them! They are one of those things that keeps me grounded in further learning and current events. I can pop in my earbuds and be whisked away to Chicago for the latest on "Wait Wait! Don't Tell Me," run through the grey areas of cognition and science with "Radiolab," or cozy up to new acquaintances on "This American Life."

In late June, This American Life presented a great episode entitled, "Americans in China." It tells tales of being the novelty, redundancy, and outsider as Americans abroad. I loved it and felt I could relate to it in a lot of ways. My favorite piece in Act Two came from writer, Michael Meyers, who is currently living in rural China. I met Michael in 2009 while researching in China, and I highly suggest checking out his book. He is a great and honest storyteller.

In Act Two, Mr. Meyers explains his small town surroundings and daily life including the people he meets, the relationships he builds, and the same questions he hears on a regular basis. It's these questions that remind you that you stick out like a sore thumb. Sometimes funny, sometimes awkward...I get them all the time (and I know I'm not alone...).

• Where are you from?


• Do you know Korean?


• How old are you?


• Do you have a boyfriend?


• How tall are you?

I've gotten used to these questions. And I often surprise myself by understanding them in Korean. But then again, I've learned these specific Korean phrases through repetition. Over and over. Again and again. And I don't see it ending anytime soon...

Give TAL a listen (only 17 minutes)!
-Bets

My 15 Seconds

As mentioned in the previous post, Educational Rift, I was in a provencial commercial that promoted English memorization in the public school system. Read more about the awkwardness at the link above. But now, months after the taping, I finally tracked down a copy to share with you, my faithful readers. You worked hard for this. Enjoy!



Awkward Peanut Butter Turtle,
-Bets

The Perks of Being a Foreigner

I've learned a lot about Korean culture and traditions over the past year. I try to respect and follow them as best I can. But, ultimately, I am a foreigner and I generally stick out like a sore thumb in my small town. Being a foreign has it's drawbacks at times: gawking, pointing, awkward silence, and racist remarks. I've also had many instances of being the novelty act. I've:

• Sang awkward karaoke on the street at a grocery store opening. And no, I wasn't busking...it just happened (curse that pushy clown!).


• Been on TV as a model teacher for English textbook memorization. We all know how that went... (PS - video coming soon!)


• Taken promotional photos for the provincial newspaper.


• Performed at my school's holiday talent show.


• Taken countless pictures with random Koreans who just want a picture with me and my friends. What do they do with photos of strangers?! I assume they have a shoe box full of foreigner photos in the back of a closet. Or maybe it's just one big-lifelong-pub-crawl-scavenger-hunt-thing...

However, being a foreigner also has it's perks (compliments, random smiles, and free stuff). That's right: free stuff.

Yesterday, I went to a local grocer for some bananas, almonds, and tofu. This is the same grocery store that had me perform karaoke on the street 10 months ago. Luckily, the store is under new management since it's initial beginning. Anyway...I've managed to walk into the store countless times and get what I need without any fuss.

However, upon walking in, the man on the mic, who usually speaks rapid fire Korean, changed his sales pitch to English. "Welcome to Nong Min Mart! Tomato, sale! Watermelon sale!" I smiled and said the watermelon was too big and heavy. I opted for bananas..."Sale on ba-na-na!"

I made my way around the fruits and spotted some delicious looking pineapple and thought I could buy half of a pineapple for me and my co-teacher to enjoy. With no price on the fruit, I went up to woman working and asked how much it was. She looked puzzled over my wishes for half of a fruit. The man with the mic smiled and said, "500 won!" (the equivalent of $0.43). I looked at him with disbelief, but graciously accepted the fruit. (Score!)

After finishing my shopping, I went to the cash counter where a group of laborers were standing around on a small break for water and plum juice. As I finished paying, the man with the mic came to me and offered a plum. "Service!" (free). I thanked him again and then his friend offered me a large glass of plum juice. I tried to decline but it was inevitably forced into my hand with a "건배!" (Korean cheers) and we drank together - though he did his in one shot. I asked, "One shot?" He looked at me with a face that said 'obviously.'

We shared another two glasses of plum juice toasting and shooting as the store clerks and laborers looked on with confusion and smiles. And I walked out with  cheap fruit, a smile on my face, and a stomach full of plum juice.

Eat Your Fruits and Veg,
-Bets

I Know Its Not Salami...

While in Korea you are constantly bombarded by trends and pop culture at every turn. None is more evasive than the factory made k-pop stars: Catchy lyrics, good looks, and overly erotic dance moves.

K-pop is everywhere and eventually you can't help but sing along. Unfortunately, for the absent-minded foreigner this means humming a lot, singing the 3-4 words of English in the refrain, and taking a stab at the other words along the way. It's not a big deal, but then you want to track down a song...

My friends and I ran into this problem in May when trying to look for a song that we could only discern as, "Salami move move!" Can you guess how accurate our translation was? Try typing 'salami move move' into YouTube and you will get a whole lot of nothing.

The search lasted a few hours as we went through song after song. Eventually we gave up and called it a night only to take up our search in the morning. It wasn't until we watched our upteenth K-pop video compilation that we finally found it. Success!!

Please enjoy this K-pop sample performed by Secret. Try and avoid hearing "salami move move" every time the chorus plays.



Where's the Salami,
-Bets

My Cinderella Story

As I have mentioned before, volleyball is a regular staff activity. However, though it appears scheduled, I rarely know whether to pack gear or not because it seems to be the opposite of whatever day I expect.

One such day in April, I had no plans to play volleyball. However, I was told at lunch that the middle school would be taking part in a mini-tournament at a neighboring school for the afternoon. As I didn't bring any shoes, I was a bit miffed because I hate to sit out.

I walked to the staff room for my ritual post-lunch coffee and the Vice Principal cornered me asking if I would play. After a fumbled conversation it was settled that I must play barefoot and in jeans.

That afternoon, we arrived at the school and were greeted by the kind principal and admin staff. My Vice Principal introduced me as "our ace" and explained the shoe debacle. Seconds later, the gym teacher was off on a hunt for the proper shoe size. I'm not sure how many students he had to ask, but eventually he returned to the gym with two pairs of sneakers for me to try.

I felt like cinderella trying on slippers and came upon a decent pair that would suit me fine. I couldn't believe how accommodating they were, but all parties were pleased. The tournament began and after a few kills, blocks, and serves our team...lost. But, I was named tournament MVP and given a new nickname, "Killer."

Oh Korea,
-Bets

The List

A common question I'm asked by friends, family, and acquaintances is, "What foods do you miss from your home country?"

I've decided to set the record straight and make a list of what I miss. It's very superficial. And honestly, I am just fine living without most of it. Anyway here goes:

• Good Beer - Korea doesn't produce many craft brews. The popular brands range in taste from water to a light wheat. Where are my nut brown ales?


• Fruits and Vegetables - Korea has these things, but they are SOOOO expensive! Grocery stores sell watermelon for $20, grapes for $7, and strawberries for $12. I miss cheap produce. Buying grapes and strawberries is a splurge for me...


• Good Cheese - I can get it in Seoul but it is obscenely priced because of Korea's outrageously high import tax (note the fruits and vegetables). I definitely didn't have this problem when I lived in France... Give me earthy and hearty cheeses!


• Chai Lattes - I can get chai at Starbucks but the closest one is in Seoul. I'm ashamed every time I realize I'm a slave to Starbucks, but it's so good!


• Pumpkin flavored anything: lattes, ice cream, candles, etc. - Korea is missing out on one of my favorite tastes and smells. Luckily, I'll be returning to the states as Pumpkin flavors are at an all time high (watch out!).


• Sourdough - This delicious version of bread hasn't made it across the globe. Most breads here are very VERY sweet; even garlic bread has sugar on it. The Korean perception of bread is very one-sided. Bread is heavily glazed, sweet, and often greasy. Most Koreans pinpoint bread as the biggest culprit in western obesity. To be fair, I would blame bread too if sugar was the only flavor.


• Freshwater Fish - I live on the coast which is a great blessing. I have fish all the time, but it's all saltwater varieties. They don't taste much like walleye...


• Proper BBQ/Buffalo Chicken - It's summer. I can't help it.


• Home-cooked Favorites - Everyone loves their mom's cooking. I'm no exception: chili, roast beef and "smashed" potatoes, broccoli salad, roll hickey... yum.

The pseudo-nice thing about Korea is it is very westernized and I can get most of what I want if I travel to a bigger city. However, I will say I greatly appreciate living in a small town. The price is right and I feel like I am having a more authentic experience. I've grown very used to the Korean diet, and I find myself craving kimchi and the like by Monday when I return to school after a weekend of fun restaurants in Seoul. Korea is very much home to me.

Pass the Kimchi,
-Bets

PLEASE NOTE: Reese's Peanut Butter Cups have been omitted from the list as my family has supplied me with enough fun-sized cups to get me through the year. Thanks family!

A Foreigner at the Terminal

One of my best friends lives in a town only 40km from my home. It's relatively easy to get to and doesn't cause much stress for getting tickets. The trick is to find the right bus. Yes, it's true: all buses are marked with where they are going, but sometimes D-Town isn't shown. This problem gets more complicated as anyone leaving my city 6 out of 10 times will be going through D-Town. One must figure out if a bus will stop there. It can be frustrating. And to top it off, one trip to D-Town could take you 40 minutes or as long as 75 minutes going through car-sickness-style country roads and alleys. It just depends on which bus you happen to catch.

Well, one evening as I was looking to visit my friends I did my usual foreigner-bus-terminal-dance where I pop my head into a few buses to see if they will take me to where I need to go. Of course I looked foolish, and after several head shakes and waves to go away a man on a waiting bench directed me over to sit and wait with him.

He was an older gentlemen in a vest and blue slacks. He looked similar to the other bus drivers but more casual and a bit distant from the rest area where the others congregated. He gave a few yells to other bus drivers, "D-Town. D-Town? D-Town."

I assumed he was fielding and answering questions like 'where is she going?' 'where are you going?' 'who is your new friend?'

The next part will come as no surprise to fellow expats: I received a polite smile and silence for the next few minutes.

However, moments later a surprising break from the silence came when the man mustered up a question (in Korean)...

"Do you teach in D-Town?"
Feeling confident in my Korean response I replied, "No."
"Are you an English teacher?"
"Yes. I am a teacher at (country middle school)"
"Oh, why are you going to D-Town?"
"Friend."
"Is it a boyfriend?"
"Yes." (This was a lie, but I was so pumped to understand full sentences that I just gave the polite yes almost automatically before realizing what he said!)
"He should be coming HERE to see you, not you going THERE to see him."
I laughed, "Yes!!! But D-Town has many friends and a good restaurant and bar." (Insert struggling for the Konglish version of hoff.)
He laughed, "Beer!!"
I laughed and asked, "Where are you going?"
He said, "I'm staying here. I work for Chungnam Express."
"You drive?" (I gave the universal hand gesture for driving as I was getting to the outter limits of my vocabulary)
"No, no..."

With that, my bus came into view and he escorted me to the door as all the bus drivers stood up to heckle him and smile at our small friendship. As I got on the bus I said thank you and walked to my seat. My bus driver got on the bus shortly after blurting to me with fervor, "Terminal CEO! Terminal CEO!"

The man still standing near the front window smiled and I gave a final bow from the buses long aisle. What a unique way to start the night...

Small Town Charm,
-Bets

Staff Outtings: An Introduction

Korea has many quirks when it comes to staff outings and gatherings. There is often a smattering of alcohol and too much food for everyone to finish. Events can be very uncomfortable and ironic with fellow teachers wanting to get home to their families or additional work. Most of the time I translate the menus on the wall, ponder how much the dinner costs the school, and then start chatting with everyone once they've had a few rounds of "Liquid English Courage."

In one case, a co-worker who had been gone for 20 days writing exam questions in a secure location (no phone, computer, etc.), arrived back at school exhausted and homesick for his young family. Instead of leaving work at a reasonable hour, the school staff held a big dinner with multiple rounds of soju for our returning friend. The festivities lasted late into the evening (as usual). Poor guy...

Perhaps the staff's most loathsome activity is our bi-weekly volleyball game. Attendance was once mandatory and we had a full court of awkward and frightened girls in the back and aggressive players in the front. But since then more and more teachers (the scared ones) have bowed out of the afternoon fun and the game has become a highlight for those that enjoy playing volleyball.

It's been fun to brush up on a sport I played in high school and leagues with a group of people who are quite capable. It took me awhile to get used to all the allowances in play (lifts, people in the net, kicking the ball soccer style, awkward sets, etc.) and the complete lack of rotation, but I guess we aren't playing US volleyball rules...

While I was Skyping my mom one Sunday evening the subject of volleyball came up. She said, 'I never thought playing volleyball in high school would help you much in the future, but I guess teaching in Korea is one of those jobs where its extremely helpful.'

"Yeah, I'm a star here. Another school's principal told me he would hire me to work at his school next year, so that I could play volleyball on their team."

Volleyball Derp,
-Bets

But Then...How Do You Take It Home?

Sometimes you encounter some strange things while traveling to new places. I think one thing that still continues to amuse me are crane game machines on the streets. It's illegal to gamble in Korea with the exception of these unique crane games.

I know what you are thinking: cheap toys, strange gimmicks, and such. But, expand your mind! For 1,000 KRW (about$.85) you can buy a chance to win a live lobster. That's right, the crane game machine is filled with a pathetic amount of water and a few lobster are poked, scooped, and cooked by a lucky few. It's quite cruel, but for the gambling addict and/or Tuesday night drunk without a place to go its as good as gold.

The Lobster Crane Game

But seriously, once you catch it, do you just grab hold and walk home? That seems awkward and a bit selfish. I mean, you only caught one, right? So many questions...

Welcome to My Small Coastal Town,
-Bets

PS - UPDATES, UPDATES, UPDATES! May was crazy busy (travelling, sickness, school) and I apologize for my absence. I have lots of posts ready to go and have also uploaded photos for March, April, and May. Check out Busan, the Lantern Festival, the DMZ, and more!

Educational Rift

While filming the advertisement for the office of education I met one of the chief officers of English programming. After filming, the crew, some teachers, and principals went out for fish soup and other local delicacies at a neighboring restaurant. After already learning that the officer and I shared a background of Wisconsin education (he a Master's, and I a BA), we chatted quite a bit during lunch. However, at one point during the meal he looked at me and said...

"You understand that the public school's duty is to teach English textbook memorization. That is the most important thing. It is not our job to teach use. Parents must pay for their students to learn this [at private, after-school academies (학원)]."

I smiled and said, "Of course." But in my mind I was screaming expletives and lunging at him over the boiling pot of soup.

I work in a small, rural school and many families can't afford private tutoring at 학원. My co-teacher once told me that about two students in each class go to 학원. Now, compare this statistic with city kids where the mass majority go to 학원 daily to get ahead in courses and future college exams. This educational disparity is directly linked to the future success of these students.

It frustrates me to no end that most of my students already know their fates at 15 and that public education is okay with this outcome and doesn't do much to combat the imbalance. Plus, it confuses me to see all of the foreigners in the classroom teaching memorization from a textbook. Why is South Korea filling it's schools with people whose biggest asset is an opportunity to speak freely and learn expression, slang, and general English use when they don't want us to veer from the text?

Furthermore, textbook memorization stifles student development and satisfaction with English learning. More often than not, my struggling students keep a glazed look of discomfort on their faces as we make our way through the lesson, only perking up when I announce a game or opportunity for occasional points/chocolate. For a nation that wants so earnestly to be a welcoming environment for English speaking tourists, making English education a drudgery of too-specific phrases and odd reading passages further repels locals from using and wanting to learn the language.

[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="281" caption="Some of my students barely enter the Understanding tier of Bloom's Taxonomy."][/caption]

I respect Korean culture a great deal, but I just can't seem to accept this aspect of education. Maybe it's pride for my rural students or my Western ideology...

Dismounting the Soapbox,
-Bets

Feeling Minnesota

The past couple weeks have been a trip down decision avenue. Should I stay in Korea for another year or not? After much thought and a few new events, I have decided to fly back to Minnesota at the end of this contract. I'm pretty bummed by the prospect (especially when some days go so well here) but supremely excited to see old faces (especially when I'm having a not-so-good day).

During my weeks of confusion I got pretty nostalgic for my Minnesota roots, and came across quite a few mildly (extremely) biased news articles and columns about my home state. Please enjoy. They made my day.

50 Reasons Minnesota is the Best State in America
So many fun facts to take in. Nice work Minnesota!

The Most Hipster State in the US
We love our don't-care-chic and our farmer's markets. Got it?

Ten Things to Know Before You Move to Duluth
Garrison Keillor got it right. I wish I could have gone to see him this year.

Best of the Northland 2011
I genuinely miss the Weekly Reader release every week...and The Anchor.

Can You Guess Where I'm From?
-Bets

My Greenest Self

I came to the realization last month that I am the greenest I have ever been. Korea has pushed me to be a lot more green. Unfortunately, this hasn't been a conscience effort (though I'd like to say it is), but rather a cultural shift that I really appreciate.

• Recycling and composting are the norm in Korea. I've always been a huge advocate for recycling, and it's really nice to see it in full force in my neighborhood. I'm still getting used to the idea of composting, but I understand the value. It's cool to go outside in the morning and see the recycling bins heaped with stuff and the trash bin shockingly empty.


• Koreans eat all parts of the animal. I've learned to just try everything (except silkworms) and see how it goes. Rarely have I been put off by taste. In the grand scheme of things I've had the usual but have added lung, brain, stomach, and blood to the mix. Not bad.


• Getting food delivered from local restaurants is very common in Korea. I don't experience it much as my mastery of Korean phone calls is still in its infancy. But, when it's ordered I'm always impressed by the lack of waste. A delivery man usually arrives with a large steal tray (like a cookie pan) wrapped in a big cloth. On the tray  are many dishes, bowls, and chopsticks. After eating your meal, you reload the tray, cover it with the cloth, and set it outside your door. The delivery man returns in 2 hours to collect the dirty dishes and waste. Delicious, no hassle, and green!


• I walk everywhere. True, I don't have a car, but I don't think I'd want one in this country. The road rules are quite liberal and gas is very expensive. The bus is cheap and super reliable. The only thing I have to worry about is walking to the terminal in time to catch the next bus. Plus, when in Seoul, the metro is clean and quite helpful for getting around. And who can resist the metro's theme song?

Now it's stuck in my head,
-Bets

My Life as a Korean TV Star

On Friday, I arrived at school in full business attire - black pants, jacket, collared shirt. It felt weird to be in such stuffy garb. As someone who usually where's jeans, a sweater, and scarf, I felt a bit awkward in my old work clothes. One of my fourth graders commented, "Teacher! You change style?" I explained, "No. KBS."

The Korean Broadcasting Service arrived at school around 10:30 for my brush with fame. Their goal was to shoot a commercial to promote my employer and the goals of English education in our province. I was to be one of the stars...

I've been in front of the camera before, but this was just bizarre. My co-teacher setup a fake class that we would run together. Students shuffled in and the director called for more students to fill the empty seats. Our strange mix of 2nd and 3rd graders (8th and 9th graders US) were just as confused as I was. My co and I awkwardly recited an old text the students learned last semester, and then I was told to go around the room and assist students with their memorization (which they already knew). I did my usual work, as well as quite a few staged teaching situations. The supervisor from the head office kept directing me using words like "fun" and "laughing" ...Have you seen the terror in my students' eyes?

Keep in mind: Between these interjections of English, I was primarily directed in Korean. I was just trying to keep up with people pulling me this way and that. I was constantly told to crouch down and talk with students (Yes, I'm a tall foreigner) or get closer (I don't know if that's because of the personal space cultural difference or the way the producers were shooting). My students were horrified and embarrassed the whole time.

My last required scene was supposed to be a casual conversation with my students (remember, 'fun' and 'laughing'?). But any native teacher can tell you that "casual conversation" at school is usually limited to 'how are you?' 'how's the weather?' 'what did you do last weekend?' 'He crazy.' Beyond these points, my students seek out Google translate, phone pictures, or you tube music videos...and many throw in the towel and give up. I think it's a mixture of shyness, frustration, and minimal motivation. I really appreciate the one's who try.

So, this casual conversation was going to be a challenge. My students were REALLY REALLY nervous. I tried to engage them in the weather and foods, but apparently it wasn't working. After several shots and line-up changes the director called it quits. Instead, he wanted us to walk slowly down the hall as a group chatting. The supervisor said the students could speak Korean/English mix so that it just looks like we are interacting...After walking too fast, and then looking too stiff, the director ended the shoot with two boys embracing and me holding a girls hand.

Oh Korea...

Hopefully, the ad turns out. If I get a copy, I'll share it on the video page...in all it's awkward glory.

No autographs, please,
-Bets

Final Thoughts on a Delightful Vacation

My friend Pete kept a startlingly detailed log of our vacation to the Philippines and Malaysia down to the hours of the day. Links to the play-by-play are below along with a few additional tidbits from my perspective.

The Philippines and Malaysia - Part 1

• "Breakfast with Betchy" or "Brunchee with Betchy" (korean pronunciation of my name) has become a tradition among my friends. I don't play crucial role. I just show up. Oh, alliteration...

The Philippines and Malaysia - Part 2

• It's an interesting feeling to get off a ferry at night and be surrounded by motorbikers that want to take you and your giant packs to your destination. Only two of us had ridden before and it was fun to see the new folks get used to being a passenger. My driver, Benji, chatted with me about the island and our trip.

The Philippines and Malaysia - Part 3

• The underground cave was beautiful and filled with fresh water. I couldn't remember the last time I swam in freshwater (sad).


• The waterfall adventure was a good one. The four of us parted ways with Pete and got to the base of a small waterfall. Margeaux and I decided to climb it. The climb lead to a smaller waterfall and then one of the most beautiful sights I've seen. I felt like I was in a movie. The waterfall was high and the pool below was clear and blue. We sat in the water and relaxed. Unfortunately, neither of us had our cameras, so that place is one for the memory bank.

The Philippines and Malaysia - Part 4

• When I said Pete had a detailed log, I wasn't kidding... Camotes Island was beautiful and from the pig slaughter we learned that the island is one of the cleanest islands in all of the Philippines. We also learned that crime is all but non-existent on the island. The last crime committed was by some drunk local who tried to use fire crackers to catch fish. They only have one cell at the police station and will keep him there until he learns his lesson or a new "criminal" is caught.

The Philippines and Malaysia - Part 5

• My ShamWow was not packed in vain. It was put to good use.

The Philippines and Malaysia - Part 6

• Poor Pete was a mess of nerves and scrapes. I was also exhausted from worrying about him all day. My rear view mirror got a lot of use on our adventure. Every time I passed a car and I couldn't see him I thought, "Oh God, Pete, please make it!" I ended up going to bed early from a bit of a stomach bug and missed much of the night's debauchery - most of our group had the flu at one point or another on the trip.

The Philippines and Malaysia - Part 7

• If going to the Philippines, avoid Manila. No thank you...

The Philippines and Malaysia - Part 8

• You may find yourself wondering, 'What is geckoing?" It is a delightful game taught to me by a few New Zealanders. When someone yells, "GECKO!!!" everyone runs toward the walls to get three out of four limbs on the surface (looking like a gecko). The last person to accomplish the task has to drink. This was a huge hit on Aussie Day at Reggae Mansion. I hope they still play it...

The Philippines and Malaysia - Part 9

• A small group of us rented motorcycles for the day (Pete was motorcycle'd out). We didn't have any real plan for destinations, but  wanted to find some coastline (surprisingly difficult on an island...). We also soon learned that our maps were inaccurate and they didn't include roads we were cruising on. It was a great day of high speeds, hairpin turns, beautiful foliage, dynamic towns with Indian, Islamic, European, and Thai influences, and a hidden beach on the South side of the island. I think it was one of my favorite vacation adventures.

The End,
-Bets

The Art of Desk Warming

If you ever wonder what I do at school, I can sum up February in two words: Desk Warming. It is a time-honored tradition that most NETs must endure. The school doesn't set any expectations for us, only that we show up and report to a near-empty school for a could weeks. I'm happy to say the time passed quite amicably. I had some highs and lows. But overall, I'm happy to say that I would never label it "unproductive".

The majority of my 9-5 was spent doing the following:

• Reading - I finished about 6 or 7 books in the past month or so (a mix of vacation and desk warming). They ranged from classics to new releases; some were great while others were lack luster.


• Watching TV - There was one day where I slipped into a coma and watched 5 hours of TV (The West Wing) only to come-to in utter disgust. I had no internet and was sick of reading. I hated it. I've weened quickly off TV shows!


• Writing Letters/Korean Origami - While pseudo-watching TV I made Korean origami figures with my idle hands and wrote letters to friends back home. It seemed like a good thing to do and helped me reconnect a little.


• Social Media/Web News - I'll admit it. Facebook, Pinterest, and Twitter made their way into each day (except the one's without internet). I couldn't help it. It was nice to chat with other folks who were doing the same thing I was...considering the only other people at school were scared to talk to me.


• Blogging/Web Design - Yes, it's true. I was concerned for the well-being of this website. It took ages, but I'm glad it's done! Woohoo!


• Online Shopping - I'm shocked at how much shopping I did this month, but I was also surprised to see how many birthdays I celebrated in February/March...


• Planning Workouts - I'm now addicted to this site called 'Fitocracy.' You log your exercise and then get points based on difficulty, time, etc. It's a lot of fun and there are 'quests' you can do... a prescribed workout worth more points (I'm not going to go rescue a princess or anything). Well, in order to maintain my lead I planned my workouts to rack points and sweat. I think it's a worthy goal!


• Job Searching/Researching - Eventually, my time in Korea will come to an end and I've been looking at the next step. I checked out information on foreign service, flight attending, public radio, grad school...just chipping away


• Lesson Planning - I did a little of that too...


• Drawing/Listening to Music - Thanks to my friend, I am now drawing everyday. It's challenging and sometimes a bit embarrassing, but I can see slight improvement each day.

TV will rot your brain,
-Bets

A Skilled Worker

My friends and I have been on the topic of citizenship, visas, and working abroad quite a lot lately. With our contracts coming to a close in only six months there are plenty of possibilities to consider when one can look at the whole world as a job market and not just your country, state, or city. On top of that, my friend was recently granted Canadian residence and was chatting about the different means one has to take to get residency without a spouse/sponsor. She explained that in order to get a visa and work in Canada you must prove that no other Canadian can do your job/skill...sounds difficult right?

Well, I think we stumbled across someone in the Philippines...

After a great morning adventure to Timubo Cave, a fresh water cave at the North side of Camotes Island, we returned to our private oasis, Mangodlong Beach Resort, for a swim in the ocean and an afternoon of sun bathing. It was very peaceful and we all got a lot of reading/relaxing done. But then, from the far side of the cove came something I was not expecting: a backhoe rowing a barge out to sea. It was quite the spectacle.

The backhoe dipped the bucket into the water and with large swings left and right it splashed it's way to it's destination. It then proceeded to use the small teeth of the bucket to pull crab cages up from the sea bed and into a large steal bucket on the opposite side of the barge. When all the cages where aboard, the back hoe continued it's journey back to land swinging this way and that. And with a final effort to dock, it wrapped it's great arm around the rocky pier and pulled itself to shore. Amazing.

That driver has a bright future awaiting him in Canada if he so chooses.

Here's an example of the backhoe rowing. Unfortunately, I only got stills of the action.


Island Innovations,
-Bets

Learning, Losing, and Relearning 'Korea'

I was only on vacation for two weeks, but it feels like I'm starting at square one all over again. Before I left I had grasped enough Korean to get through restaurants, taxis, shops, and general commerce activity with minimal problems. "Please bring me... How much is it? Where are you going?" But, I still had not learned anything of communicative value to relationship building with local Koreans. I was just that silly foreigner.

I decided to make a new goal for myself. I will have a meaningful conversation with each of the teachers in my school before my contract is up. I don't care if it's in broken Korean, English, via Google Translate, or interpretive dance - I just want them to know that I respect them and have more awareness of Korea than they may perceive. Also, I would like to disprove their view of me. I'm not shy or lonely; just frustrated with banal conversation.

I was doing quite well with this goal having already had decent conversations with the Social Studies, Phys. Ed., Science, and English teachers. But, then I went on vacation...

While abroad, I was able to speak English with the majority of people in the Philippines. It was great - I felt spoiled! I could meet locals and have an engaging conversation beyond...

"Hello! I'm from the USA. I am 25 years old (Korean). I teach English at [. . .]. Yes, I like kimchi." 

It was wonderful! Not only that, but leaving Korea made me look at the country as a (literal) outsider for the first time in awhile. What a breath of fresh air?! I could see how other cultures operate and compare them across the board. How do people from small-town Philippines react to foreigners? How do all the prominent religions of Malaysia interact with tourists? Needless to say, I was impressed.

And then I came back to Korea. I still feel at home here, but I feel like all the progress I made before I left is gone. My Korean language skills have come back very slowly. My fellow teachers are even quieter towards me than before. It reminds me of an ad that ran this past fall by the Visit Korea Year Campaign, urging Koreans to "shake off their shyness" around foreigners. It's amazing how true it feels at times.



Valentine's Chocolate Snack,
-Bets

Vacation: A Brief Overview

Hello and apologies for my prolonged absence. I thought my redesign was only going to take a few days, but then I started to hate the design, and then I had vacation, and then I came back with limited motivation... But! Here we are on a newly designed site complete with new videos, photos, archives, and more. Take a look around and let me know what you think via the contact page or this post!

So, as I said before, I went on vacation in mid-January. My friends and I stumbled through 10 islands,  5 hostels, 4 countries, 4 beaches, 2 lakes, and 1 cave. Not to mention countless airports, train stations, taxi stands, bus stops, and the occasional motor bike. Malaysia and the Philippines were great destinations and I'm looking forward to sharing more stories with you from my trip in the month ahead.

My school is currently on academic break and we, Guest English Teachers, are taking part in the time-honored tradition of 'desk warming.' It's not so bad. The hallways are quiet and I'm left to my own devices for two+ weeks. I have hopes of reading, studying, blogging, and the like during this time, but we'll see how the internet and social media affect that...

Afternoon Coffee,
-Bets

The History of English

In early October, only about four weeks into my teaching, South Korea observed Hangul Day: a national holiday that honors King Sejong for his invention and proclamation of the Korean language (Hangul) in 1446. Knowing very little about this holiday, we "discussed" the meaning in a 5th grade class. My students offered a bit of insight (as best they could) and then posed the question, "When was English invented?"

My brain did a back flip. Having studied the origins of English briefly, I knew that this was not an easy subject to introduce to a group of 11 year olds with a small English vocabulary. My mind raced from the Romans to the Normans to the Vikings to the Industrial Revolution...to the countless nationalities who have influenced this strange language.

My mind settled on saying: "English has changed many times. No single person started English. The English we speak 'began' around the 15th century. English is always changing and borrows words from many different people." The 5th graders took this in and attempted to process. Rightfully, they appeared confused. I wish there were a clearer answer...

For those of you above a Korean 5th grade English level, you may want to check out this humorous take on the history of English. I would have loved to have shared this with my students!



Excuse My English,
-Bets

Small World

An interesting thing happened in Seoul's Hongdae neighborhood one crisp fall day. After arriving and grabbing some delicious Mexican cuisine, our group found ourselves with some time to burn before hitting up the Halloween festivities later that night. We weren't very interested in doing something super touristy that day, so we thought we would hangout in the neighborhood and try and find a museum of some kind.

We ended up having a delightful afternoon at Hongdae's Free Market checking out musicians, artists, and caricatures; most of them students at the adjacent Hongik University. After making all of our final purchases, we started off again. I was still kind of hoping for a museum visit and we happened to spot that Hongik University (Korea's premier art school) was having an open campus weekend for anyone who would like to see the school. What luck?!

It was great to be back on a college campus. I missed the vibe. Unfortunately, our first attempt to visit a campus museum was a bust. It was closed...but, that didn't stop us from riding the elevator all the way to the top to check out the beautiful view. The streets are quite confusing on the ground and I found no clarity in the air either. I think Seoul will always remain slightly mind boggling, regardless of how long I live here.

We returned to the first floor, grabbed some coffee, and continued to walk the campus. The leaves were bright and everywhere - perfect for running through and kicking up. We saw a slew of art banners advertising various museum shows and installations. Intrigued, we went inside a very large building with a giant spiral staircase right in the middle of the lobby. I set my sights on the printmaking expo flyer, but was a bit lost on where to go. An older gentleman in a nice suit walked through the lobby and spotted my confusion.

He led us to the elevators and took us to the fourth floor. I couldn't believe our luck. He was  so welcoming and going out of his way to help us. When we arrived at the gallery, we all noticed that the student workers bowed very low to our guide. Clearly, this man was important. He continued to lead us and showed us where to find the Chinese student work, the Korean student work, and lastly the staff works - noting that we could see his work as well.

Kim Seung Yeon is the head of the Print Making Department at Hongik University,
and a world renowned print maker...


Night Landscape by Kim Seung Yeon

Mr. Kim then showed us around and talked to us more about the United States and where we were from. After learning that two of my friends were from Kansas, Mr. Kim went on to explain the printmaking exchange program they have with that university. They replied, "Oh yes! We have a friend who did that program. Do you know Dana...?"

"Oh yes! I do. She was great!"

It's a smaller world than I thought,
-Bets